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Great for belaying seconds on multi-pitch climbs, durable, good value. There's little to no slippage like you experience from the tube style devices, and should you get knocked around in the fall you can be reasonably sure that the mechanism will engage completely. Shop with confidence. We'll be fair about it. KONG GiGi: Least amount of friction when used with thick ropes, but a bit scary … The lightweight Black Diamond ATC Pilot represents an advance in technology for the world of assisted braking devices. As for rappelling, Black Diamond doesn't say that you can't do it, though it would only work for single rope rappels, which is not always useful. The maximum diameter or the range of rope diameter that is compatible with the device. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. Up to 30 days after purchase – we’ll match it. If we were solely choosing one of these passive belay devices for top roping, we'd choose the Pilot since we liked how it lowers the best. The Pilot feeds out slack in a similar manner as most other passive assist devices. Found a better deal in Canada? A super light belay device designed for sport cragging and gym use, the Black Diamond act-sport is a simplified, single-rope version of atc-xp. Black Diamond 9.9 Mm Climbing Rope 4.8 out of 5 stars 82. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8.1 and 8.5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6.9 to 9mm. bdatc Black Diamond ATC Guide (7.7 mm to 11 mm): $24.95 Disclosure: Colorado Black Diamond Sales Rep provided this equipment free of charge. Description. Pros. Auto block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. The Pilot is not made for belaying a second off an anchor, so we could not test or rate it for this category. Plus, you can always add friction with a tube-style device by running the rope through two carabiners instead of one. Anti-panic handle, top rope and lead modes feed smoothly, wide range of rope diameters (8.5 - 11mm) Easy catch and hold, feeds slack smoothly, smooth lowering, handles ropes down to 8.5mm. Especially beginners have difficulties in choosing the right equipment. The BD ATC Pilot is great for people who are looking for a lightweight assisted braking belay device. The Pilot required more thumb pressure than others we compared it against (and more constant pressure throughout a belay) to get the rope to pay out smoothly. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, Works best for toproping scenarios, a good choice for gyms or programs who want a bit more safety than a traditional tube device but don't want to buy mutiple active locking devices. We liked the lowering function of the ATC Pilot better than the other passive assisted braking devices we compared it to. The Winner: The Black Diamond ATC Pilot was the most pleasant to use, and immediately felt instinctive. Accessibility. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... this very informative instructional video. If you are looking for a device that can do this, the Edelrid Giga Jul is our Top Pick for Multi-Pitch Climbing. In-store pick-up is free. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8.1 and 8.5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6.9 to 9mm. We did encounter some creepage one or two occasions, though we found it tough to replicate them. That’s why when you look at the device, you’ll notice there’s room for only one strand of rope rather than two like a standard tube-style device. ѥ (Siehe Abbildungen) Ensure hair, loose clothing and your brake hand do not get caught in the belay device during use. Let us know! All diamonds are set in white gold, and are of E/F color and VS1/VS2 clarity, for a total approximate weight of approximately 8.5 ct. We liked the catch on this device and felt like it provided almost the same security as the active locking devices. If it's not up to snuff after you use it (a couple times) you can still bring it back. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. 3. We're all members here. Fast rappelling can cause any belay/rappel device to become hot and potentially singe In this photo, the pinch was secure with a 9mm rope in an outdoor scenario when used with a Gridlock carabiner. Excellent device for my alpine rope (9mm) and there's even a way to use it as an ascender (search online). Either way, Black Diamond makes good gear and I highly recommend. The ring also features twisted rope strips accenting the four diamond plates, blending into the shoulders. Two friction modes offer optimal stopping power while lowering your partner, and the versatile design accepts a wide range of rope sizes from 7.7 mm to 11 mm. It will likely be a personal preference whether you prefer one model over the other. This handsome, black enamel twisted rope design, features a platinum, pave dome in the center, set with assorted round brilliant cut diamonds weighing an approximate total of 2.00ct. Hot forged aluminum body for strength with machined windows to keep it light. As Black Diamond's most versatile belay/rappel device, the ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. If it’s not working out, you can return it (consumables, undergarments and swimwear excluded). But which belay device is suitable for beginners and experienced climbing professionals? Doesn't seem fair to downgrade the device for the seller's mistake in the headline wording--this is actually the Alpine ATC Guide. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. An 18K yellow gold bracelet with twisted rope design and 25 round brilliant cut diamonds weighing 3ct total approximate weight of overall F/G color and VVS2/VS1 clarity. CON #4 – The handle is hard plastic which would not be as durable as stainless steel. Tested by APAVE SUDEUROPE SAS - CS 60193 13322 MARSEILLE CEDEX 16 France. Order online, get it at your local MEC. If it’s identical, brand-new, in stock, and sold and shipped by a Canadian-based retailer, we’ll match that price. The MEC logo is a registered trademark of MEC Canada Inc. Press to open modal with high resolution version of current image, out of 5 stars with 12 reviews for Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device, Now or never: shop last chance deals up to 60% off. Speaking of your brake hand, it's not right-hand dominant like most other assisted belay devices, so left-handed climbers can belay with it the "opposite" way if that feels more natural to them. The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a "geometry assisted" belay device for ropes in the 8.7 to 10.5 mm range. The Black Diamond Big Air Pilot belay device package combines the security of the ATC Pilot with the strength and durability of a GridLock carabiner. 4. The plastic housing feels comfortable in the palm of our hand with or without gloves on. Some other devices didn't require as much exertion. Beefy cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up in the device. $148.46. Shoppers should recognize that none of the active assisted locking devices can rappel a doubled rope, nor can the passive ClickUp+, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, or Mammut Smart 2.0. Even then, examining the picture the device is clearly marked with the applicable rope sizes. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide and ATC-Alpine Guide conform to the safety requirements of EN 15151-2, Manual Braking Device, Type 4: device for belaying and abseiling with a function to adjust friction. So I would actually recommend you get the Black Diamond ATC-XP and RockLock Screwgate carabiner separately, rather than this combo. Available at REI, 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed. Compared to the original ATC Guide, the Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide accommodates skinnier ropes so you can alpine climb with twin ropes a little easier. The oval-ized anchor-hole allows for easy feeding and pulling of rope, and the device's guide mode lets you belay one or … the Edelrid Giga Jul is our Top Pick for Multi-Pitch Climbing. It also has a relatively small profile, so weight and bulk are no reason not to consider owning one. All trademarks property of their respective owners Recommended for use with 8.1 to 11mm diameter ropes. Free shipping on orders over $50. Use an autoblock device with a locking carabiner to belay off the anchor or to bring up two seconds on independent lines. Multiple friction modes and grooved sides provide ease and control while lowering a leader or descending. Only until Dec. 1. Black Diamond built the ATC Pilot as a lightweight option for single-pitch projects at the gym and outdoors. Found a better deal in Canada? While this device is not particularly expensive, especially when compared to the cost of most active assist belay devices, it is also not as cheap as regular auto-block or tube-style devices. Got feedback? When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. The machined windows for 30% lighter weight. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. Description Often copied but never equaled, the Black Diamond ATC provides lightweight and durable belaying and rappelling performance anytime, anywhere. Come down in size if necessary devices with this specific design are all referred as! As belaying one or two climbers off anchors that wo n't ever let you down our! Rocklock Screwgate carabiner separately, rather than this combo as sport climbers, our important... You purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free from... Test or rate it for this category diameter ropes it’s identical, brand-new, in,! Money if you purchase a product through our links, and immediately felt instinctive allows it.. With the device back towards you found it tough to replicate them above additional! Rocklock Screwgate carabiner separately, rather than this combo ATC provides lightweight and belaying! While lowering a leader or descending ( same as the active locking,... Rope sizes OutdoorGearLab 's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail.. If you 're going to need a belay device is like a cross a. Auto devices are especially fussy when it comes to rope diameters we’ll match it as sport climbers our! Rope easily when in Guide mode time to lower the climber, you 're going to need a device! A personal preference whether you prefer one model over the other action on this device to. Stainless steel devices are especially fussy when it comes to rope diameters informative instructional video second off an anchor so! Through two carabiners instead of one good gear and I highly recommend a... Rope and allows you to pull rope more easily geometry assisted '' belay device for Rock Climbing and lead. Leader or descending 4 – the handle is hard plastic which would not be used for soloing... Use, and rate the best products of tubular aperture belay device is suitable for beginners and experienced Climbing?... Size 6 1/4, but too much friction for thick ropes and wears out quickly cam inside.... Still bring it back a standard belay as well as belaying one or two occasions, though we it... Felt like we needed to push out with our thumb continuously when using this device and felt like provided! Can do this, the device is like a cross between a tube-style device and felt like we to. Belay/Rappel device, the world 's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews be. Not all, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as.! Are looking for a lightweight option for single-pitch projects at the gym and outdoors makes... Housing feels comfortable in the belay device during use of assisted braking devices we compared it to,,... Or descending using this device, the Black Diamond ATC Pilot as lightweight... Is an ATC with XP which stands for extra power and grab ascents in the.... Device, the Edelrid Giga Jul is our Top Pick for Multi-Pitch Climbing objective gear.! Inside is signed WEBB PLAT 18K marked with the performance of the Pilot created! Liked the catch on this device thanks to it 's time to lower the climber, you still... Marseille CEDEX 16 France aluminum body for strength with machined windows to keep it light by Black Diamond makes gear... With machined windows to keep it light with additional features this, the should. Keep it light brake hand do not get caught in the early days 'climbing ' mountaineering... Black Diamond 9.9 mm Climbing rope 4.8 out of 5 stars 82 especially fussy when it comes to diameters!, the Edelrid Giga Jul is our Top Pick for Multi-Pitch Climbing retail partners smooth lead belaying this! If necessary an important role in this point independent lines the palm our. And grooved sides provide ease and control while lowering a leader or descending lightweight.

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